March 15 - 19, 2023
This mountain is nestled near Santiago, Chile, in the breathtaking Andes Mountain range, just a two-hour drive from the city.

Climbing Marmolejo was no easy feat—not just because of its altitude, but also due to the long approach and the heavy weight of our backpacks. I tackled this mountain with www.rimaya.cl, the same mountain guides who accompanied me on my Plomo expedition.

Day 1
We began with a 12-kilometer trek. Mules carried our duffel bags filled with food and gear as we hiked for 7 hours from "El Cabrerio" (2,353 meters) to Base Camp (BC) at 3,417 meters.

Day 2
We moved from BC to Camp 1 (C1), starting late morning at 11:30 AM. After almost 6 hours on a very steep trail, we reached C1 at 4,331 meters, carrying 24-kilogram backpacks.

Day 3
From C1, we pushed toward Camp 2 (C2), taking about 4 hours and 15 minutes. Although the terrain was easier, the lack of oxygen made it challenging. We set up C2 at 4,900 meters, getting to bed around 9 PM, but sleep was scarce—just 3 hours.

Day 4: Summit Day
The alarm went off at 2 AM, and by 4 AM, we were climbing. It was a grueling 12-hour day. Unfortunately, due to stomach issues that began on Day 2, I was running on empty and had barely eaten in two days. Just 300 meters from the summit, I had to make the tough decision to turn back. In high-altitude mountaineering, it’s crucial to save enough energy not just for the ascent but also for the descent. As the saying goes, “Going up is a choice, but coming down is mandatory.”

Day 5
We descended from C2 all the way back to our starting point—a challenging 18-kilometer trek that took 10 hours. The mules transported our duffel bags from BC, while we navigated three river crossings, now with stronger currents due to afternoon snowmelt.

It was an unforgettable experience. Our guides—James, Hernan, and Camilo—were exceptional. Most importantly, we all returned home with our spirits high, richer climbing experience, and stories to tell.